PHOTOGRAPHY: HEIDI CSERNAK
It’s no secret that fall is without question, my favourite time of year.
The long, hot, humid and clingy days of summer are history. Best of all – gone, (for the most part) are the insidious hordes of mosquitoes, blackflies and entire rogue’s gallery of nasty buzzing insects. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love the warmer months – but when I compare summer to the smooth, chill breeze, brilliant colours and overall relaxing vibe of autumn, I’m instantly infatuated with everything the season has to offer.
It’s now a prime-time to throw on your favourite hoodie, step into some hiking shoes and spend some quality time with your special someone, friends or perhaps in quiet contemplation. Fall road trips with family and friends present a great opportunity to get outside and immerse yourself in autumn’s beauty.
For our next story with Cornwall Tourism and SDG Tourism – Heidi and I decided to do exactly that. Scenic nature walks, breathtaking rural drives, cozy accommodations – and of course: a few choice dining venues where we could invoke the inner foodie. Without further ado, let’s jump right in.
A TRANQUIL CRUISE ALONG THE LONG SAULT PARKWAY
We decided to kick-off our trip with a nice drive along the world-famous Long Sault Parkway. This scenic riverside driving route comprises 11 Islands, that were once points of elevation when the surrounding area was flooded during the construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950s. The parkway is also home to several campgrounds, and walking trails.
The skies were grey and hazy as we casually drove along the parkway, which only amplified the gorgeous mix of greens, oranges and reds of the surrounding trees as they transitioned from the emerald hues of summer to the brilliant mix of fall colours. The parkway is also popular with cyclists, making it a great place to bring your bikes for a family ride with plenty of picturesque picnic spots along the way.
BREAKING OUR FAST AT NAUTICA GRILL & WINE
When adventuring throughout the beautiful landscapes of South Eastern Ontario, it’s super-important to ensure that you get yourself a proper breakfast. It is, after all, the most important meal of the day – and it’s certainly something that Nautica Grill & Wine takes very seriously. Nautica easily classifies as a wonderful hidden gem, tucked away in a quaint marina just minutes east of the Long Sault Parkway.
Open daily from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Nautica’sdelectable menu is filled with an array of tantalizing choices like omelettes, brunch sandwiches, Mediterranean French Toast and other favourite breakfast dishes, making each a unique culinary experience in itself.
Heidi chose the Skillet which features delicious Italian sausage, succulent pork loin, smoked ham, red onion, bell pepper, potato, cheddar cheese, 3 fried eggs, Texas toast and a wonderful fresh fruit garnish. I was in the mood for a more carnivorous assortment so I went with the Hog Tied breakfast. This breakfast plate fit for a king came with 3 eggs, applewood smoked bacon, breakfast sausage AND ham. I also chose to add caramelized onions, which definitely jazzed up my home-fries.
Our food was delicious, and the riverside views from the dining room were absolutely brilliant. Nautica Grill is now one of my favourite stops in SDG.
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN NATURE’S BEAUTY AT COOPER MARSH
With a bountiful breakfast in our bellies, we were more than ready to face the day ahead. After leaving Long Sault, we continued east along County Road 2 enjoying a scenic riverside drive to Cooper Marsh Conservation Area for a long leisurely stroll and some bird watching. Cooper Marsh is part of Chatlottenburgh Park which spans over two hundred acres of captivating wetland ecosystems.
Our exploration of Cooper Marsh brought us along beautiful trails and an extensive boardwalk that ventures out into the wetlands. The terrain was alive with a myriad of colourful sights as the surrounding trees were in various states of change. The once verdant leaves were taking on a glorious mixture of gold, crimson and orange. The horizon was still grey, with a misty haze giving our scenic walk a wonderfully mystical undertone.
As we continued along the boardwalk we were met with the harmonious chirping of several bird species which only added to the relaxing and refreshing atmosphere.
Heidi tried her best to capture some photos of the birds, but our little feathered friends were quite tricky. As we approached an area, they would chitter to one another as they darted about and perched underneath the dense cover of bulrushes and other wetland foliage. Perfectly camouflaged, they peered out from between the blades of grass for a moment, only to zip to a new hiding place, in an endless game of “hide and seek.”
If you look closely at the image below, (right-hand picture) you can see a rather sneaky little sparrow peeking out from behind a cluster of fluffy cattails that had gone to seed.
EXPLORING SAINT RAPHAEL’S RUIN
Eventually, we were able to pry ourselves away from the whimsical walking paths of Cooper Marsh – and continued north from South Lancaster on County Road 34 toward the site of Saint Raphael’s Ruins-a place steeped in history and spiritual heritage. This extraordinary ruin was once St. Raphael’s Church which was first commenced in 1815 and served as the centre of the colony’s largest and most important parish. It was also the administrative seat of Upper Canada’s first Bishop: Alexander Macdonnell.
In 1970, this immaculate church was claimed by a fire, leaving the eerie yet beautiful ruins that we see today. The church’s superstructure remains intact, and visitors can walk within the interior which has grassy areas where the pews and pulpits once stood. Whether you would consider yourself religious or not, there is an unmistakable sense of reverence as you explore the ruins and admire the intricate stonework.
The incredible ruins stand as a testament to the dedication of those who laboured to build it and provides a glimpse into the earliest days of Upper Canada. It’s a fantastic place to stop while travelling throughout the region and is also a rather popular venue for weddings and musical recordings due to its unique acoustics.
One of Saint Raphael’s more notable features is the original bell which would have once hung from the bell tower until it was destroyed by fire. Partially melted, bent and twisted from its original form; the bell sits on a stone pedestal at the entrance to the ruin. Interestingly enough, The Cornwall Community Museum’s website has a small collection of pictures that reveal what the church looked like before the fire.
CHARMING AND HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS AT THE AUBERGE CHESLEY’S INN
Steps away from downtown Cornwall is an elegant Georgian Era house that was first built in 1814 by an entrepreneur from New York State named: Alsaints Chesley. During the American Revolutionary War, Alsaints fought against the British along with his three brothers. In 1800, he emigrated to what is now Canada, and 14 years later, he built his hotel which was a popular stop for stagecoaches and travellers.
Today, the house continues its legacy of exquisite hospitality as the Auberge Chesley’s Inn, under the proprietorship of Robert Prowse. When Robert first purchased the property in 2013, the house had fallen on hard times and was in dire need of repair and renovation. By 2014, Robert had painstakingly restored the house to its previous state of grandeur complete with time period furnishings and an eclectic mix of vintage decor and luxurious modern conveniences.
A DELIGHTFUL DATE NIGHT AT SCHNITZELS EUROPEAN FLAVOURS
Once we were settled into our room at Chesley’s, we took a short walk over to Schnitzels European Flavours on Pitt Street for some dinner. Situated in the heart of Cornwall, this premiere restaurant draws oodles of inspiration from European culinary styles, and focuses on using sustainable locally produced ingredients. The restaurant itself sports a cozy decor, banquet space and comfy dining area, making it a prime choice for group events, family dinners or intimate date nights.
The dinner menu is filled with a great assortment of tasty starters, lovely shareables, mouthwatering entrees and some seriously decadent dessert choices.
To start, we shared an order of Reuben Springrolls which take the usual suspects of a Reuben sandwich (corned beef, sauerkraut, & swiss cheese) and stuff them inside a crispy, delicious spring roll. They were, to put it lightly: life-changing.
For the main course; Heidi chose the bold, spicy Chicken Farcite, which comprises a juicy grilled chicken breast stuffed to the brim with St.Albert’s cheddar cheese, delicious roasted red peppers – and finished with a bold cream sauce. She also enjoyed some house-made garlic mashed potatoes with her meal. I was lucky enough to get a taste of this zesty dish and can say with confidence that it was the perfect blend of flavour with a mild heat. The potatoes came in handy to soak up the delicious juices from the chicken ensuring that her plate was virtually spotless.
I selected the Vienna Schnitzel, which features a milk-fed veal cutlet that is pounded thin and adorned with a light, seasoned breading before being fried to a perfect golden brown crispiness. I also had an order of spaetzle which was jazzed up with the inclusion of bacon and caramelized onions. Just, brilliant.
For dessert we couldn’t decide on one to share, so we both selected a decadent treat of our own. Heidi was hard-pressed to resist the house’s signature Apple Strudel, which was the very picture of sweetness – dusted with icing sugar and a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Being a shameless chocoholic, I was quick to choose the Brownie a la mode. This monumental brownie was decked out with not one, but three dollops of whipped cream, a scoop of ice cream – and a hefty drizzle of chocolate and caramel syrup for good measure. It was pure indulgence served in a dish. I mean, just look at it.
BREAKFAST AT CHESLEY’S
The following morning, we awoke bright and early from an incredibly comfortable sleep in our suite’s king-size bed. Once we were up and about, we headed downstairs to meet up with Robert for a delightful petit dejeuner in Chesley’s bright, and luxurious dining room. We were a bit early and were promptly shooed out of the kitchen and into one of the grand sitting rooms to relax while Robert set about finishing breakfast.
It was a great opportunity to enjoy the ambiance, and socialize with our esteemed co-host: Robert’s adorable Scottish Terrier, Hamish. As the scintillating aroma of frying bacon gradually filled the air, I couldn’t be sure who was more excited between Hamish and myself.
Robert prepared a wonderful breakfast including a tasty frittata using local, free-range eggs, locally raised bacon, fresh fruits and french-pressed coffee. It certainly hit the spot and made for a superb start to our day.
CHASING FALL COLOURS AT GUINDON PARK
Hugging the North shore of the St. Lawrence River is a wonderous 500-acre natural park area situated a short drive from Cornwall along Highway 2. With over 12 kilometres of scenic walking trails, Guindon Park is a popular destination for hiking, cycling, picnics, horseback riding and even cross country skiing during the winter months. As we arrived at the park, we quickly began to realize that Guindon would be an ideal place to continue our quest for fall colours.
Once again, the overcast skies and dim lighting presented a gorgeous backdrop that helped enhance the menagerie of changing colours throughout the forests and trails. The trails were laden with fallen leaves representing a variety of warm colour tones that seemed to glow with a light of their own. The forest interior remained largely green, however, looking up toward the canopy revealed several signs of change as the highest leaves were beginning to take on a series of yellow-gold brilliance.
We spotted several squirrels and chipmunks as they darted to and fro, in a seemingly endless race to find the best places to stash acorns in preparation for winter. We tried to move quietly so that Heidi could hopefully snap some photos. The speedy little rodents ensured that every animal in the forest knew we were there by constantly crashing through the leaves, and “tattling on us” as they chittered boldly from the safety of the treetops.
At one point we spotted a beaver dam, however much like the majority of woodland creatures at Guindon Park, they too seemed to be quite camera shy. As we made our way back to the car, Heidi was photographing some radiant Asters that grew along the trail. Upon closer inspection, she noticed several bumblebees, resting among the petals and waiting for the warmth of the sun on this rather chilly autumn morning.
One last lingering echo of summer mingling along the pathway, surrounded by the bright colourful spectrum of autumn’s brilliance.
After our lovely stroll through the woods, we returned to our car and followed Trillium Drive to the other side of the park, where we found a public boat launch and several picnic areas along the water’s edge. It was a great place to walk along the waterfront and observe several species of waterfowl including Canadian Geese, ducks and cormorants.
At one point we watched as a single hawk flew several slow circles over the bay, gliding on air currents as he surveyed the water for a glimpse of his breakfast. Alas, the wind was rippling the water’s surface, likely distorting his view of any potential fish to snatch up in his talons. After a few more laps he moved on, leaving the fish relatively safe, for the time being.
BODACIOUS BURGERS IN INGLESIDE
By this point, we had spent just over two hours wandering throughout the natural beauty of Guindon Park, and it was edging ever closer to lunchtime. Luckily, our next stop was a short 15-minute drive west along Highway 2 in the lovely community of Ingleside, Ontario. Butler’s Restaurant is located in a mini-mall right off the highway and is in a prime location between Cornwall and Morrisburg.
Butler’s is a family-owned restaurant with a great menu, filled with some creative takes on classic pub favourites. Most of the menu choices are made from scratch using locally sourced ingredients. There is also a fully stocked bar, featuring some great local craft beer. In fact, Humble Beginnings Brewing Co. is located right next door.
For lunch, we were hard-pressed to pass up the chance to try one of their burgers. Heidi enjoyed a Jalapeno Cheddar Burger, which also came with a pile of fresh-cut fries. It was the perfect mix of cheesy goodness and tangy heat.
One particular burger choice which caught my eye was entitled The Collusion. This politically cheeky burger combines Russian dressing with American cheese which was as delicious as it was satirical. I added bacon, and upgraded my side to a poutine, which I suppose makes it a conspiracy. The burgers were next-level. Handmade local beef patties and buns that were baked fresh in-house. It doesn’t get much better than that. Or does it?
As we finished our lunch, we perused the dessert menu and discovered that they also bake fresh donuts on-site, and feature locally roasted coffee, by Coffey’s Coffee which is also located in Ingleside.
Lunch goals = crushed.
EXPERIENCE AUTUMN IN CORNWALL AND SDG!
Fall is a fantastic time to take a scenic road trip, or spontaneous staycation and experience the beauty of autumn throughout Eastern Ontario! Cornwall and The United Counties of Stormont Dundas and Glengarry – offer up a fun and engaging variety of experiences that are sure to make your next autumn escape truly unforgettable!
Thanks for tagging along on our latest adventure! To start planning a fall colours trip of your own, check out the custom Google Map below.